Hi folks. My name is Catweasel and I found this forum courtesy of Shortliner. I'm also in the UK. I am starting out on a shortline layout,no name yet, but I have a couple of Louiseville & Nashville loco's so that may give you some clues as to location. The track plan was drawn up by Shortliner. I've started laying out the track and it will be DCC with servo's for the turnouts.I'm getting the hang of some language terms I think. Size isn't huge,long side 10 feet overall and the "L" is 4x2 feet. The Domestic Authorities decreed that the railway ( or in this case,road) should be in a separate room,so a 10x6 foot building was put up in the garden. Looking forward to this.Never built an American layout before. Regards.

I have written about my new brass caboose - an OMI model two or three weeks ago - and now the first replacement parts are ready for mounting. The entire brake gear is new and it was built exactly after a drawing of N&W Historical Society archive collection.



After installing the brake gear I will write about this work in own post about all the changes at this model. I must say that this work was a lot more complicated as I thought before.

I'm looking for (preferably a P2K) extended dynamic brake with hatch door, the P2K model I bought doesn't have it. It can be found on the Clinchfield 38-2 <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-31023">http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-31023</a><!-- m --> If anyone has a spare I can buy off them or know a link to buy one it would be appreciated.

The last classic coal breaker, the largest one ever built, is coming down. The St. Nichols breaker in Mahanoy city PA. ,was once served by the Reading then Conrail , has missed it's chance to become a museum. I passed by it today and grabbed a few shots of it as it was being dismantled.

   

   

   

   

   

Thought I would post a photo here of my HO ECI rail line.

Hello Folks!

According to an other thread here is my solution, I hope stressless for you, to divide solid side rods into segmented ones.

First:

Make a rig.
Here the side rod is used as a gauge to get the correct measures of the center distances. You have to use a drill bit with just the same diameter as the bores in the side rod. Then take some pieces of round stock and push them into the bores. Only qualification they have the same diameter as the bores in the side rod.
In some cases you may have to use the frame with it's axle bores as gauge for the center distances. A little bit more difficult, but not impossible
Then remove the rod. If it does not come off smoothly, pull the pieces of round stock and make a new rig. Small pieces of wood are cheap.
Then you have a rig with a gauge you can work with.


Second:

Take a strip of brass sheet of suitable size and thickness, here it is 0,3mm.
Drill with a small diameter dril bit first.


Third:

Enlarge the bore. The final measure is just the same as those of the crankpin screws. The bore in the rod head needs to be enlarged very slightly in order to guarantee smooth operation.


Fourth:

Deburring.


Fifth:

Cut side rod.
Before you have to choose were the cut will be on the smartest place in respect of the later functionality depending of loco type and size.


Sixst:

Solder
The piece of silicone tube is for fixing the parts during soldering.
Pay attention the new rod is in a straight line, the center measures will be fixed by the rig, but you have to orientate the straightness.
The soldering should be really "done" for mechanical strength.


Seventh:

Make nice.
Remove excess material, either by using a silicone grinding disc in your Dremel or by hand filing. Your choice of method which you prefer.
Form a new rod head, orientate on the existing rod heads. Deburr.


Eight:

Mounting.


Nineth:

Nothing to see.


Tenth:

A sight from beneath to show how it fits.

Also you can use the method to repair worn out side rods. But then you have to use the main frame with his axle borings as gauge. And it may be the diameters of axle bores and side rods are deviating. To get rid of this problem use small pieces of brass tube, outer diameter is axle bore, inner diameter is drill bit diameter. It is also possible to use telescoping brass tubes to bridge the different diameters.



So long

Lutz

NS notice of cessation of service Dec 31. 2015:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.nscorp.com/content/nscorp/en/service-alerts/notice-of-cessationofserviceeffectivedecember12015forallshipment.html">http://www.nscorp.com/content/nscorp/en ... pment.html</a><!-- m -->

I'm planning on building a Helm lease GP38-2 #3852. I have a handful of detail parts I'll be adding to this P2K model. I'll also be trying out Pacific Western magnetic brake hoses and MU hoses.